The square next to the apse of the Church of Santa Maria Maggiore, from which a spectacular staircase leads down to the door of Santa Maria, today known as “Porta Catena”, is called Piazza del Tomolo. The name comes from an ancient commercial measurement, corresponding to the amount of grain needed to sow a tomolo of land—just over fifty kilos, enough for a plot of about 3200 square meters.
In 1426, Queen Joanna II granted permission for a market to be held every Sunday in the square by the Santa Maria gate, the main entrance to the city from its marina. The market, later moved to Saturdays and held there until 1548, allowed the sale of agricultural products without the payment of duties.
The square, surrounded by traders’ shops, featured a large hollowed-out stone, used for measuring the grain. This same stone was also used to publicly shame those who couldn’t pay their debts; they were stripped and made to sit on the cold stone while passers-by mocked them.
Today, Piazza del Tomolo is known for the distinctive descent to Porta Catena and the stunning sea view, but also for a curious legend. It is inspired by a tombstone, walled up on the side of the apse of Santa Maria Maggiore, which locals call “Zà Mascia” or “Zia Tommasa.”
The funerary slab, probably from the Norman era, was walled outside the church after renovation work in the first half of the nineteenth century. However, the people of Vasto believe it represents Death, a figure they avoid naming, which is why they refer to it as “Zà Mascia.” Locals also believe that lovers who kiss in this square will never marry.
